160 Miles Backpacking in Arizona

This is to report on my nine day backpacking trip from Flagstaff to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon and back to the South Rim. The trip ended in Las Vegas where ten of us Raleigh Trail Runners shared a suite and six of us including myself brought COVID home. Fortunately, I was boosted three weeks ago and I don't have symptoms except a running nose. Anyhow, plenty of time to write this post. Many descriptions below have already been posted on Facebook. However, there are a bunch of folks old and young that don't use Facebook and this blog is for you.

In hindsight, the most memorable photo I took was from the Grand Canyon North Rim Lodge looking south to my starting point covering my entire journey.

At the North Rim looking south to Humphreys Peak covered in clouds. A day hike south is Flagstaff the beginning of my hike.

After days of solitude I was extremely happy to meet friends that I have known in part for more than a decade. My other most memorable photo:

Reunification of Raleigh Trail Runners at the Colorado River. Everyone is still smiling not realizing what it means to climb back up 4,400 ft in elevation.

Preparation

I don't want to write too much about preparing for a backpacking trip, but the most important to me were:

Minimize weight on your back to maximize distance

Forget about fresh underwear for every day. No soap. no deodorant. Only pack what it absolutely necessary. What food gets the most calories per weight? What minimum amount of clothes do I need to not freeze? For example, I ditched the tent when hiking through the Grand Canyon and just slept on the mattress in the open as there was no rain predicted. 

Be willing and able to hike ten hours a day (including breaks)

Running as much as I do I wasn't worried about hiking all day. However, it did take a big mental toll to hike from sunrise to almost sunset day after day. There is a general feeling of exhaustion that must be overcome.

Study and understand your hike. In this case, especially: "Where do I find water?"

Most importantly, there is the FarOut App that all long distance hikers use to find and report on the current status of water sources and other important trail updates. I also asked hikers coming my way about the water sources. Water is very heavy and really conflicts with minimizing weight. It took me a couple of days to figure out a good compromise. 

Your are totally on your own. Plan for redundancies and back-ups.

Even though I used the GPS on my phone for navigation, I also had the planned routes on my inReach satellite device as well as on my watch. This gave triple redundancy on finding my way. If all failed I knew I would reach Hyw 64 or 180 hiking west for less than 15 miles and as a last resort there is the SOS button on the satellite device that would start a search and rescue. To make fire I had a lighter, but also carried a pack of matches and a watertight canister of waterproof matches as backup. In addition to the water filter I also carried water purification tablets in case the filter clogs up. 

Day 0: Raleigh to Flagstaff, 2,000 miles

As any delay in my trip would jeopardize me meeting my runner friends at the Grand Canyon nine days later, I was pretty worried that everything would go smooth this day as I had to rely on Southwest to carry me through Denver to Phoenix and Groome Transportation to shuttle me from Phoenix to Flagstaff. However, at the end of the day I managed to arrive in Flagstaff 15 minutes early.

Next to NYC Phoenix probably meets the top of my list of cities I would never want to live in and I was glad my shuttle arrived at the Terminal to pick me and four others up for the three hour drive to Flagstaff.

Denver Airport

Phoenix. Who wants to live in this shit hole?

Shuttle rider needing a "roadie" to pass the time.

Made it to Flagstaff

Most interesting was the change in vegetation from Phoenix at 1,000 ft elevation and 100 deg F to Flagstaff at 7,000 ft and in the 70s. It started with 30 ft tall cacti and ended up with dense pine tree forest.

After arriving in Flagstaff at 3 pm I bought a propane canister at a local outfitter. This was the only thing I couldn't carry on the plane. On my way to the motel I stopped at "Fry's" grocery store (I think they are related to Kroger) and I bought some dried fruits for the trip as this was suggested by others as a good backpacking food. I also bought beer for the evening. I initially planned to later walk the mile back into town for dinner, but instead I hit the Mexican next to the motel and went to sleep early. I woke up many times at night due to the heavy train traffic transporting double stacked containers from the west coast east. 

Grocery store in Flagstaff. Humphreys Peak in the distance.

How could I buy any different beer?

Awesome dinner with massive burrito hidden under loads of cheese

Day 1: Flagstaff to North West of Humphreys Peak, 22 Miles 

I got up an hour before sunrise, threw away my airplane-traveling-clothes, filled up water and headed out to the trail. Starting point: Old Route 66 - "I get my kicks on Route 66". It was a very beautiful day hiking. The trails were very well maintained for hikers and bikers. In the first few hours I still saw people walking their dogs, then some trail runners and finally a couple of mountain bikers. The hike had a lot of elevation gain from around 7,000 ft to nearly 9,200 ft and the very dry air and elevation made the hike difficult at the end. Initially, I wanted to hike only 20 miles to a water supply lake, where I filtered about 2 quarts of water, but I ended doing another 2 miles until hitting camp. I was very exhausted.

Early am hike out of Flagstaff

Flagstaff shortly before sunrise

Sunrise over a sea of flowers in Flagstaff

Still full of enthusiasm

First (and probably best) water supply. I filtered 2 quarts of water here. West face of Humphreys Peak in the back. The majority of mountains around Flagstaff are old volcanoes 

Looking west some small mountains 

Many folks I would meet hike the entire trail from Utah to Mexico

View out of tent

Day 2: 24 Miles Going North

I woke up at around 5 am. After coffee and oak meal breakfast I started packing up and was ready to hike just before sunrise. The hike started easy as the trail was heading down the north west flank of Humphreys peak to about 6,000 ft. In the beginning there were beautiful aspen forests but at the end only a barren desert with some scrubs. I didn't know what to expect, I only saw four people today. Three thru-hikers coming my way from Utah and one dude in a pickup truck shortly before nightfall. The hikers confirmed water availability at the East Cedar Tank close to the end of todays hike. This was critical as there was no reliable water for the next 25 miles beyond that. Throughout the day it got very hot in the sun without shade. I stopped several times under a bush to snack and relax. This turned out to be warmest day of the hike. Finally, in the afternoon I reached East Cedar Tank and refilled all water containers. I decided to continue and add a few more miles with the hope I might make it to the South Rim campground in five days instead of six. This would give me a whole day of rest before the Grand Canyon. I finally pitched my tent in a wind protected depression just before sunset. Spaghetti dinner and sleep. 

Another beautiful morning

Aspen grove

Interesting patch of dead trees

Humphreys Peak from the north.

The beginning of the desert looking north. The green line at the horizon is Kaibab National Forest 20 miles south of the Grand Canyon

East Cedar Tank. Great water supply

Water filtration set-up

Final rest before camp. Humphreys Peak in back

Day 3: 27 Miles into Kaibab National Forest

I didn't sleep well and woke up wide awake at 1 am. Today, it was supposed to get stormy with winds blowing from the south west. After yesterday's hot hike I was not looking forward to another hot day through the desert. After trying to fall asleep for another hour I gave up, fixed breakfast and broke camp. I started night hiking at around 2:45 am. Maybe two nights ago it was full moon and the moon shone so bright I didn't need to use my headlamp to see the trail. I achieved about nine miles before sunrise. However, later in the morning and afternoon I slowed down significantly. At first I gave myself a 30 minute break every three miles, later every two. I was extremely exhausted when I reached my camping spot for the night at around 4:30 pm. However, the distance covered today and yesterday ensured I would have a full rest day at the Grand Canyon. I also "timed" my water just right today. At the end of the day all was used up except what I needed in the morning. I knew I was only one mile away from the next water supply. I met five hikers today all heading from north to south. All conversations are the same.

Hiker: "Are you finishing your thru-hike you started in spring?"

Dieter: "No, just hiking from Flagstaff to the North Rim. How about you?"

Hiker: "I started my thru-hike in Utah x days ago. Did you get water at x and y?"

Dieter: "There is plenty of water at x. I don't know about y. How about northbound?"

Hiker: "There is water at z and it filters good." 

Dieter: "Thank you. Good bye."

Hiker: "Bye"

Orion shining at night. Due to the bright moon I wouldn't see the Milky Way until the Grand Canyon. 

Mesa Butte, maybe an hour before sunrise

Sunrise over Mesa Butte

Last bit of desert hiking

Grass is getting longer and bushes reappear

Day 4: 18 Miles Through Kaibab National Forest

After a full ten hours of sleep I woke up very refreshed at around 6 am. After breakfast I broke camp. Although, it had rained a bit overnight it was a beautiful morning in the mid 40s and I quickly reached my water supply - Russell Tank. Although the main tank had been empty for a while it was known that the small tank still contained a few inches of water. I wasn't too pleased to see a bunch of decomposing wasps floating on the surface, but the water filtered fine. I only filled up 4 quarts as I would reach another water source in the afternoon. Even though I started the day very refreshed this did not last long. I quickly got tired again and started my hike three miles, rest 30 minute routine. The trail was also getting more difficult as it hugged a cliff for hours with constant minor climbs and descents. I thought after all this hiking my body would adjust, but the opposite is happening. I was being told to quit this nonsense. It's not a specific foot or knee pain, but a general feeling of fatigue that tells me to stop. Despite encouraging messages from a friend I started studying the maps in more detail and figured out that I could cut out eight miles from day five by simply hiking north into the national park instead of remaining on the Arizona Trail. This plan boosted hope and energy. I now needed to fill sufficient water for day five and camp as close to the national park boundary as possible as it is illegal to disperse camp in national parks. So I kept trucking along until I got to the seasonal wildlife tank which unfortunately was a one mile detour, filtered water and hiked to the boundary of the park. There were many campers in RVs including massive RV busses. I picked the only spot that had a bench and table. It was so nice to sit at a regular table for dinner!!

Good morning. It had rained some overnight, but I quickly packed and left

I don't think I stink yet, but I need a shave. Always close the satellite communicator. Most hikers had one. 

What a beautiful sunrise!

Water! The big tank is empty, the little one on the left had some inches of water.

This water was nasty. Many decaying wasps, but it filtered well.

Some vertebrae. Not every hiker makes it. Just kidding, these were probably from a cow.

Lake Russell. So why did the thru-hiker tell me yesterday to not filter here, but at the wasp tank?

First view of a massive canyon ahead! I am getting excited

Looking east down the cliff I had to hike up and down all day

This is the wildlife tank. Pretty nasty water. Last water stop before the Grand Canyon

This is the optimal setup to filter. Just fill and wait. Takes maybe 10 minutes to get 3 quarts filtered

This lookout tower was unfortunately closed to the public

This camping bench made the site a five star hotel! 

My favorite dinner. Spaghetti with pesto and tuna.

Day 5: 13 Miles to Mather Campground at the South Rim

Hurray! The last day of hiking before shower, endless food & beer. Let's go! This was supposed to be a quick hike into the park and along the "access" road running parallel to the tourist road. Unfortunately, it seems the "road" hasn't seen much use and it was a pretty rocky up and down hike. I finally reached a spot where I bushwhacked a quarter of a mile to the main tourist road and the access trail to Shoshone Point. There were only four cars in the parking lot at the trail head, so I knew I would have the view of the Grand Canyon to myself. However, as I got to the observation point there were somehow 20 cars or more parked. I crashed a wedding! I eagerly looked for alcohol, but nobody was drinking beer and the groom and bride only had a bottle of champagne for the pictures. I needed to wait. 

I was so happy and exhausted that I actually cried when reaching the rim. The majestic view and the sudden drop of all pain and suffering let to these tears of relief.... I should have saved these for later.

From Shoshoe Point to the campground was another 2 mile hike along the rim followed by a 15 minute bus ride to "downtown" South Rim. There I walked to the campsite not forgetting to buy a couple of beers at the grocery store. It felt very strange to be back in civilization. I met up with Tres at the campsite, who drove all the way out to Arizona from North Carolina. We talked, went to wash clothes, I showered and then we went to a lodge to had a huge dinner. I slept so well!!

Finally, crossing the line into Grand Canyon National Park

Good thing I sleep in a tent

Walking to the Rim

Made it!

View from the South Rim with nice shadows from the clouds.

Crashed a wedding. They seem old enough to know what they are doing... not sure she should stand this close to the edge..... 

Tame elk at the campground

My first beer after five days!

Day 6: 0 Miles at the Campground

The plan was to do absolutely nothing today although I did walk to the South Rim to check out where we would resurface in a few days hiking back from the North Rim. Other than that we went to the grocery store and had dinner at the lodge.

Some meaningless advice at the trailhead

 

Trail we should be coming up three days from now

Day 7: South Rim to Phantom Ranch Campground (at the bottom of the canyon), 10 Miles

Tres and I didn't get up too early for this hike and we added the extra two miles to hike from the campsite to the trailhead instead of taking the shuttle bus. Hiking down South Kaibab Trail was amazing. The trail continued to stay on top of canyons as it descends from 7,000 ft elevation to 2,500 ft. The views were spectacular. Also, the temperature increased significantly going down. We were in the 40s on the rim and hit 80s at the bottom. Shortly after noon we found a good campsite at the campground. I had been extremely lucky six months ago to have won the lottery for one of these 40 sites. The rest of the afternoon we spend chilling at the Colorado River, the camp site and drinking beer at the Phantom Ranch. The ranch is resupplied only via mules coming down from the South Rim, every other day.

Tres and I ready for the challenge

Nice overview of the canyon

Some folks took their own mules down.

About halfway down

Far below the oasis of Phantom Ranch Campground and Lodge

Our bridge across the Colorado River

Out of the tunnel and onto the bridge

View of the second bridge we would traverse two days later.

Our backpacks safe from the curious fat squirrels.

Best beer in the world

Day 8: Phantom Ranch to North Rim, 18 Miles

After breakfast and watching the mule caravan leave the ranch for resupply we left the campground at around 7 am. The trail heading north would follow Bright Angel Creek for along time. This creek cut a significant canyon into the rock that protected us from the sunlight. On our way we stopped at the scenic Ribbon Falls. Eventually, at around 4,800 ft elevation the trail departed from the creek and started a steep climb that would last for hours. Although strenuous, this was my favorite part of the hike as there were very steep cliffs with great views. Slower than expected, we finally reached the North Rim Lodge at around 3:30 pm. Before going to our room I had a couple of beers at the "Saloon". Sitting outside overlooking the canyon and seeing in the far distance Humphreys Peak where I started my journey was pretty emotional. We ate pizza for dinner and then greeted three Raleigh Trail Runners who took the shuttle bus from the South Rim to the North Rim (a multi hour drive over Hoover Dam). Two would hike with us the next day back the entire canyon. This was my first day sleeping in a bed.

In the meantime there were ten or more Raleigh Trail Runners getting ready to hike / run from the South Rim the next day. Some of those were planning to run from the South Rim to the North Rim and back in a single day. About 50 miles. They are crazy! We were excited to see them somewhere along the way.

Mule caravan taking up trash, bringing down more beer.

Sunrise hitting the canyon walls

Trail next to Bright Angel Creek well protected from sunlight

Trail hugging the canyon face

Nice windows in the lodge overlooking the canyon

Day 9: North Rim to South Rim (R2R), 28 Miles

This turned out to be the most difficult day. Many miles and plenty of elevation change. We got up early enough and left the lodge at 4 am. Initially, we thought we may take a shuttle to take us to the trail head, but paying $25 for a 2 mile ride seemed ridiculous so we walked instead. As all North Rim facilities close October 15th for the winter, but rim-to-rim hikers want to take advantage of the low temperatures we knew the trail would be full and yes there were maybe around fifty hikers that all started down the trail at the same time. However, after an hour or so folks spread apart and the hike became once again a lonely adventure. Hiking the first hour in the dark with headlights gave some great views of strings of light in the distance below. Like Christmas. There is no cell phone reception in the canyon, but we had coordinated with some hikers from the South Rim to meet sometimes around noon at the Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon. We arrived at the ranch at about 11 am and fortunately shortly afterwards folks from the South Rim showed up. After some resting and a couple of beers we jointly hiked for a while what would become a grueling 4,400 ft climb. Fortunately, there were plenty of stops to refill water and take short breaks. Finally, shortly before sunset we made it back to the top. We jointly ate dinner at the lodge, sat around the campfire for a bit, but most of us ended up going to sleep early.

Shortly before 5 am at the North Rim trailhead

Many other hikers attempting the Rim to Rim hike

Shortly before sunrise. A caravan of lights below from earlier starters.

Do not slip here.

As we were still descending we met the 50 mile Rim to Rim to Rim runners that already were in the ascent towards the North Rim.

Noon at Phantom Ranch meeting up with more Raleigh Trail Runners

Resting at the Ranch

The majestic Colorado River

Just crossed the Colorado hiking up towards the South Rim

Almost to the top and almost sunset

Finally, a batch of us made it out of the canyon. The last steps of my journey

The Final Days Out West

After waking up from a long sleep the campsite filled with the folks from Raleigh and started to cook breakfast. Then it was time to say farewell. Some needed to catch a plane from Phoenix or Las Vegas, others started their track back home with their personal vehicles and some stayed in the area for additional sightseeing. A group of six of us drove to Las Vegas to meet up with others for two days of birthday celebrations, gambling and sightseeing.

Birthday Celebration

Breakfast in the suite

Sightseeing

Take-aways and Outlook

Arizona

• Arizona is a beautiful state and not the desert I assumed. Perfect for hiking; at least this time of the year. The weather and temperatures were great and the low humidity and lack of bugs made the camping experience even better.
• I love hiking in the Appalachians, but compared to the West it is a green jungle with very few outlooks or scenery changes. This was completely different in Arizona hiking through different vegetation zones and with vistas all along the hike. However, forget about finding water on your own. 
• Compared to NC there were surprisingly few wild animals except for birds. During the entire hike up to the Grand Canyon I only saw one small herd of deer, a flock of wild turkeys, one chipmunk, one bunny rabbit and some lizards. I did not see a single snake.  
• It is very very quiet at night.
• Very few other hikers on the trail. I saw maybe five a day.

Backbacking

• I was too ambitious planning to hike over 20 miles a day. A better number should have been 15. I was lucky to achieve the 20+ daily miles, but only because this was a relatively easy trail.
• I think my backpack weight was acceptable. Maybe a bit too much food and water, but there could have always gone something wrong. The average thru-hiker I encountered seemed to have a similar backpack size.
• I got pretty good at quickly setting up camp and starting back hiking in the morning. 30 minutes after "coffee in bed" I was on the trail.

Longer Hikes?

I first became aware of the three long distance trails in the US after reading "Wild". Since then I read a ton of other books and seen Youtube videos of thru-hikers finishing the Appalachian Trail (2,200 miles), the Pacific Crest Trail (2,650 miles) or the Continental Divide Trail (3,100 miles); some have hiked all three. I immediately was hooked on the idea of doing nothing but sleep, walk, eat all day for six months or so. Meeting new people as you go along the journey, hitting town stops every four to six days and experiencing plenty of adventure along the way.

I guess my hike was a first test if I could enjoy this type of life at least for a few days. I am not so sure.

I had no problems with five days of solitude. One would assume that there is plenty of time to think and solve the problems of the world. However, just like when running a marathon it seems the mind slips into some sort of meditation without much intellectual power. Most days when hiking, I was mainly thinking about nothing or hiking. Doing this for six months would seem a waste of potential and maybe it would even become boring? Options of entertainment are very limited.

I didn't mind much not taking a shower for five days, pooping into a hole I just dug or having very limited possessions. I think I could handle that part of a long distance hike. But what would happen if it rains for a few days or is brutally hot? I don't know.

Most long distance hikers start alone, but join loosely formed groups along the path. Hike with this group for a while then later join another group. "Hike your own hike" seems to be a key mantra on these journeys. I suppose joining others can make things more interesting, especially when going into town for rest. 

At any rate, I have yet not made up my mind about wanting to hike a long distance trail. However, I am planning to hike next year in the fall a high altitude trail. Maybe the 560 mile long Colorado Trail through the Rocky Mountains from Denver to Durango? A large portion of this trail is also part of Continental Divide Trail. Another option would be the 211 mile long John Muir Trail through the Sierra Nevada from Yosemite to Mt. Whitney. This trail requires a permit via lottery and the chances of winning a slot are very slim. Maybe I'll apply in April for a fall permit and then decide. It's just $10. I'll keep you updated.